クノイド波に関する研究(第2報) ―波速および波長について―

Abstract

In the first report, the graphs and the method to compute the wave profile from a givenwave steepness and water depth to wave height ratio were presented based on the cnoidal wavetheory developed by Laitone in 1961.This paper provides the graphs to find easily the wave velocity, wave length and valueof the complete elliptic integral of the first kind from a given wave period, still water depth andwave height for practical use based on Laitone's cnoidal wave theory. In addition, the com-parisons of the wave velocity and wave length are made between the first and second approxima-tions of his solution and between Stokes waves of the third order approximation, Airy waves, cnoidal waves of the second approximation and the solitary wave.