<研究ノート>平安中期の雑袍勅許

Abstract

In this study I have attempted to examine the shoden sei 昇殿制 (a system that allowed aristocratic officials with imperial permission to approach the emperor in the elevated portion of a building in which the emperor was present) and the character of aristocratic society by clarifying the distinctive features and the process of formation of the zappo ckokkyo 雑袍勅許 in the mid-Heian period. Heian aristocrats were required, In principle, to wear formal dress, sokutai 束帯, when they were in attendance at the imperial palace. The zappo chokkyo was an imperially conferred privilege that allowed one to go to wear informal dress, noshi 直衣, instead of the sokutai, when at the palace. The shoden sei developed during the reign of Emperor Uda. In this respect, it can be said that the system became "official and public" in that time, but it was still considered as "private" in a sense because unlike "official" service in a government post it was based on a "private" relationship with the emperor. The zappo chokkyo began as a part of the development of the shoden sei as it was bestowed on aristocrats who had received the shoden privilege. It allowed wearing either the zappo no sokutai, a formal costume over which a private jacket could be worn in place of an official one, or the kaigu no noshi, the complete ensemble of informal dress. The zappo no sokutai was worn to visually distinguish "private" service at the denjo 殿上 (a raised area for the emperor) from "public" service in an official capacity. The kaigu no noshi was worn as necessary for ease of movement when at work in the denjo area. The zappo no sokutai, however, became obsolete circa the reign of Emperor Murakami. The kaigu no noshi was also restricted and prohibited from being worn on inappropriate occasions. The noshi came to be seen as appropriate wear based on its chief characteristic of being informal dress. As a result, during the Sekkan-ki 摂関期 (the period of regental rule) the noshi could be worn in the imperial palace on three types of occasions, roughly classified in the following way. It could be worn for ease and comfort when the official was unwell, it could be worn as an expression of a state of emergency, such as after a fire in the palace, and it could be worn by affines who were privately related the emperor or empress. The essential reason for the noshi being worn by such maternal relatives was more a matter of choosing a suitable costume rather than a show of privilege. In the Heian aristocratic society, to act appropriately in accord with circumstances was considered very important. This sense of appropriate behavior maintained the social order and formed the kojitsu 故実 (normative old customs and manners), and operated as a standard by which kojitsu would be selected to fit the situation.