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jfm.2023.73.pdf | 1.99 MB | Adobe PDF | 見る/開く |
タイトル: | Freak wave in a two-dimensional directional wavefield with bottom topography change. Part 1. Normal incidence wave |
著者: | Lyu, Zuorui Mori, Nobuhito https://orcid.org/0000-0001-9082-3235 (unconfirmed) Kashima, Hiroaki |
著者名の別形: | 森, 信人 |
キーワード: | coastal engineering nonlinear instability shallow water flows |
発行日: | 25-Mar-2023 |
出版者: | Cambridge University Press (CUP) |
誌名: | Journal of Fluid Mechanics |
巻: | 959 |
論文番号: | A19 |
抄録: | In the propagation and evolution of sea waves, previous studies pointed out that the occurrence of the freak wave height is significantly related to the quasi-resonant four-wave interaction in the modulated waves. From numerical--experimental study over an uneven bottom, the nonlinear effect caused by the bathymetry change also contributes to the occurrence of extreme events in unidirectional waves. To comprehensively analyse the two-dimensional wavefield, this study develops an evolution model for a directional random wavefield based on the depth-modified nonlinear Schrödinger equation, which considers the nonlinear resonant interactions and the wave shoaling the shallow water. Through Monte Carlo simulation, we discuss the directional effect on the four-wave interaction in the wave train and the maximum wave height distribution from deep to shallow water with a slow varying slope. The numerical result indicates that the directional spreading has a dispersion effect on the freak wave height. In a shallow-water environment, this effect becomes weak, and the bottom topography change is the main influencing factor in the wave evolution. |
著作権等: | This article has been published in a revised form in Journal of Fluid Mechanics https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2023.73. This version is free to view and download for private research and study only. Not for re-distribution or re-use. © The Author(s), 2023. Published by Cambridge University Press. The full-text file will be made open to the public on 17 September 2023 in accordance with publisher's 'Terms and Conditions for Self-Archiving'. This is not the published version. Please cite only the published version. この論文は出版社版でありません。引用の際には出版社版をご確認ご利用ください。 |
URI: | http://hdl.handle.net/2433/283113 |
DOI(出版社版): | 10.1017/jfm.2023.73 |
出現コレクション: | 学術雑誌掲載論文等 |
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