日吉津海岸における波浪観測について

Abstract

Forecasting shallow water ocean waves is one of the most important problems in coastalengineering at present. Nevertheless among the characteristics of shallow water ocean waves, the wave height reduction due to bottom friction is not well known.To make clear the transformation of shallow water ocean waves, the wave observations weremade at Hiezu Coast in 1963.This paper presents the facilities and equipments used, the methods of wave observations, and the results of wave observations analyzed by the significant wave method and the wavespectrum method.Ten wave data at the corresponding two or three stations could be obtained at HiezuCoast and all the wave data are compared with the theoretical values obtained by Longuet-Hig-gins.