浅海重複波の質量輸送に関する実験的研究

Abstract

This paper deals with the mass transport in the boundary layer developed on smoothand rough boottoins by standing waves in shallow water of uniform depth.Measurements by means of dye tracer show that observed mass transport velocityprofiles in the laminar boundary layer are in good agreement with the theoretical valueexcept for low waves. However, for high waves, the observed mass transport velocityU on a smooth bottom is less than that predicted by the laminar theory as the bottomboundary layer becomes turbulent. These results indicate that at the inception of turbulencethere is a break from the laminar theory in which U is proportional to H2 (H: waveheight).In addition, the velocity profile on a rough bottom is discussed on the basis of exper-imental results.