風波による海浜変形の特性について(1) ―平衡断面形に関する実験的考察―

Abstract

As the first step to clarify the effect of randomness of waves on beach processes, the experimentswere performed using wind waves in a high speed wind-wave tank. And also, some considerationsof equilibrium beach profiles obtained by regular waves are made with the aid of the results of ex-periments by the authors and other authorities.The comparison is made between the equilibrium beach profiles obtained by wind wave actionand those by regular wave action. The result shows that there is a wide difference between them, especially the location of generation and scale of longshore bar.