クノイド波に関する研究(第9報) ―砕波近傍におけるクノイド波理論の適用性―

Abstract

The previous papers dealt with discussions of applicability of the enoidal wave theory fromvarious points of view, and concluded that this theory should be used rather than Stokes wave theorywhen the wave period beomes long. However, these papers did not deal with near breaking waveswith large wave height.This paper firstly presents experimental results of the horizontal water particle velocity underthe wave crest and wave profiles of breakings waves, which were measured by taking photographsof the wave profile and floating tracers on the water surface with 16mm high speed cine camerafollowing the breaking wave.Further the paper deals with the horizontal water particle velocity computed from the enoidalwave theory near breaking, then presents the relation between T√g/h and H/h given by the limitingcondition of wave breaking that the water particle velocity at wave crest is equal to the wave celer-ity, and discusses applicability of this theory to near breaking waves.