クノイド波に関する研究(第10報) ―総括と今後の間題点―

Abstract

Nine reports of the studies on enoidal waves discussed the applicability and the practice ofLaitohe's enoidal wave theory. Especially, the hyperbolic wave theory which is the approximateexpression of the enoidal wave theory was derived, and many experiments were conducted in orderto clarify the region of applicability of the enoidal wave theory. Further, wave shoaling problems, which can not be explained by the small amplitude and Stokes wave theories, were solved by theapplication of the hyperbolic wave theory.This final report summarizes nine reports and discussed the applicability of the enoidal wavetheory again. At first, the difference between the first and second approximations of this theoryand secondly the difference between the enoidal and hyperhlic wave theories are discussed. Final-ly, the criteria of applicability of the enoidal wave theory are discussed from four kinds of viewpoints: 1) the intersection points of the theoretical curves of the enoidal and Stokes wave theories, 2) the fittness of the experimental values, 3) the relation between the water particle velocity andwave celerity and 4) the fittness of the experimental values of waves on the sloping beach.