不規則波の砕波変形特性に関する研究

Abstract

In this paper, firstly, the previous prediction model for shoaling of irregular waves is improved, and the validity of the model is examined by comparing the estimated results with experimentalwave data and field wave data observed in Lake Biwa.Secondly, characteristics of transformation of irregular waves in shallow water, I.e., the spatialchanges of frequency spectra, surf beats, representative wave heights, frequency distributions ofwave height, significant wave periods, wave grouping, skewness and kurtosis are investigated byanalyzing experimental and field wave data, and the effects of the bottom slope and the deep-waterwave steepness on these characteristics are discussed.