複合断面を有する海底地形上の不規則波の砕波変形特性に関する研究

Abstract

This paper investigates transformation characteristics of irregular waves experimentally;that is, an aspect of transformation process of waves, representative wave heights, frequency distri-butions of wave heights, significant wave periods, skewness and kurtosis, wave grouping on abeach of composite type such as bar type and step type beaches. In addition to the experiment, this paper proposes a numerical model for prediction of shoaling of irregular waves, includingwave breaking, and compares experimental results with predicted ones. The numerical model pro-posed here is an expanded model previously presented by the authors (1981, 1983) for shoaling ofirregular waves on a beach with a uniform slope.It was seen from experimental results that transformation characteristics of irregular waves ona step type beach are a little different from those on a bar type beach. It was found from thecomparison between the experimental results and calculated ones for wave height change thatthe proposed numerical model is applicable especially for a bar type beach.