現地海岸波浪の波群特性の解析

Abstract

Field wave data observed at Ogata Coast is analyzed to make clear thefollowing groupiness properties of coastal waves: (1) variation of wave groupinessproperties in the ranges from the deep water to shallow water including the surfzone by using the parameters of mean run length and groupiness factor, whichdescribe the magnitude of sequence of high waves and of wave energy historyaround the mean, respectively; (2) relation between wave groupiness and shape ofwave height distribution, which is represented by groupiness factor and shape factorof the one-parameter Weibull distribution; and (3) distribution of run lengths andtime series of wave heights in the wave group containing the maximum wave, which are compared with theoretical predictions by wave modulation and envelopesoliton models.