深海から浅海に進むうねりの波群特性

Abstract

This paper investigates on the spatial variation of the wave group accompaniedby swell propagating unidirectionally from deep to shallow water. First, dataanalyses were made for the field wave data obtained at Ogata Wave Observatory, Disaster Prevention Research Institute of Kyoto University in which swellpropagating almost unidirectionally in the Japan sea can be observed. Then, amodel equation which can describe the unidirectional propagation process of swellfrom deep to shallow water, is proposed to investigate on wave group properties, and its accuracy and applicability are examined experimentally. Numericalsimulations of the propagation of swell having expected statistics were made usingthe equation, so that some unresolved properties of wave group and their spatialvariation were made clear.