不規則波浪の浅水変形に伴うスペクトル変化に関する研究

Abstract

A nonlinear shoaling model in frequency domain dervied from the variable depth Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation, equivalent to the 'consistent shoaling model' by Freilich and Guza (1984), was used to predict spectral changes of 1-D random waves.A random wave experiment with Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum was done to get detailed data of wave transformation over a uniform slope.The model overestimated the observations even in the region where there, were no wave breaking.In order to make the agreement between the predictions and experimental observations well, the frequency domain KdV shoaling model was modified to represent the dispersion relation and shoaling of linear component waves. As a result, the agreement between the predictions and observations in the shoaling region became better.An energy dissipation term must be included in the modified frequency domain KdV model to apply to the breaking region.