Numerical Calculation of Linear Wave Propagation in the Coastal Zone

Abstract

Numerical calculation method of short waves in the coastal zone is developed using the transformed mild slope equation, which is derived by transforming the elliptic MSE into the system of three first-order hyperbolic equations (H-MSE). The derived system of equations is solved by ADI method with employing the artificial boundary condition, called sponge layer to perform an effective computation. Including additional effects of energy dissipation due to wave breaking and wave-current interaction, it is attempted to raise model's level up to the version which can calculate wave fields in the surf zone as well as around the coastal structures with an accuracy for engineering practices. After fundamental model tests, it is shown that the developed short-wave model predicts the stationary wave field in which effects of refraction, diffraction, reflection and energy dessipation are simultaneously considered.