Cultivating in the Indigenous Way, Eating in the National Way: Changing Food and Identity among the Malo, Southwestern Ethiopia

Abstract

Although teff (Eragrostis tef) is a minor cereal worldwide, it is cultivated most extensively in Ethiopia and still expanded in cultivation area. This article considers why this millet is so important in this region by analyzing the case of the Malo society in southwestern Ethiopia. Their indigenous techniques used for cultivating teff suggest that they have been cultivating it since long before the incorporation of their territory into the Ethiopian empire at the end of 19th century. However, it is also known that teff cultivation began extensively in this area no more than a half century ago. Although several factors contribute to the expansion of teff cultivation, the most important factor is the adoption of a national food item known as injera in the mid-1970s. Malo people knew about it before but did not eat it because it was strongly associated with the imperial settlers who exploited them. Following the Ethiopian revolution during 1974–1975, however, they started to enjoy injera. Currently, it is one of their most popular dietary items consumed on holidays and at markets. Not only the taste of injera but also the rising identity of the people as Ethiopians seem to be involved with the food's popularity.