クノイド波に関する研究(第6報) ―クノイド波理論の適用限界について―

Abstract

In the third report, it was described that Laitone's cnoidal wave theory of the secondapproximation agrees well with the experimental results for the wave profile, wave ve-locity and wave length in the case of small water depth-wave length ratio. This paperdeals with finding of the limiting condition for application of the cnoidal wave theoryby comparing with both Stokes wave theory of the third order approximation by Skjelbreiaand the experimental results for the wave velocity and wave crest height above still waterlevel in the case of relatively large water depth-wave length ratio.In addition, the reason why Skjelbreia's solution has been adopted as the most pre-ferable Stokes wave theory here is explained.