浅海重複波の質量輸送に関する研究

Abstract

This paper deals with the mass transport in the laminar boundary layers developedon smooth and horizontal bottoms by standing waves in shallow water.By theoretical approach, the laminar boundary layer equations are applied to solvingthe oscillatory motion in the boundary layers caused by the standing waves. Approximatesolutions, obtained by the aid of the perturbation method describe the velocity of the 2ndorder approximation in the vicinity of the bottom and are applied to deriving the masstransport velocities in this layer.The theoretical results are compared with experimental data on the mass transportvelocities in standing waves in shallow water.