波浪スペクトルにもとづく大潟海岸の波向の推算について

Abstract

Ten-minute simultaneous wave records have been made in shallow water off theOgata coast by three wave gauges set at depths of 6-7 m in a triangle, whose sides are14.0 m, 32.0 m, and 27.7 m, respectively. These data have been digitized at 1-sec in-tervals and analyzed to extract power spectra and cross spectra. The directions of pre-dominant waves are estimated based on the phase angles. These wave directions agreewith the wind directions estimated from the weather maps. In addition, the directionalresolving power of the actual array is checked and comapred with two modified arrays.