海岸波浪の予知に関する研究(第2報) ―大潟海岸における浅海波の推算―

Abstract

Wave forecasting is one of the most important problems in coastal engineering atpresent. The problem of forecasting shallow-water waves is, however, somewhat hand-icapped by lack of adequate data for storm winds and waves.In this paper, the graphical approach by Bretschneider in 1954 for wind waves inshallow water is discussed, and a modified new graphical approach is proposed. Thesignificant wave heights and periods estimated by this approach are compared with thoseobserved off the Ogata coast. It should be noted that the relationship between bottomfriction factors and wave Reynolds numbers off some Japanese coasts obtained by Iwagaki-Kakinuina (1966) are reasonable for the significant wave method.